Domaine André Bonhomme Crémant de Bourgogne Brut, 2020, Burgundy, France

Made in the same way as Champagne (but in Burgundy), this bottle-fermented Crémant is made exclusively from Chardonnay and aged on yeast lees for 24 months, which is longer than many non vintage Champagnes. Floral and fresh, but toastier than a fire at a bakery, only a thousand bottles of this are made each year.

Founded with a tiny 4 hectares by André Bonhomme in 1956, the estate was at the forefront of the establishment of the Viré-Clessé Appellation in 1998. Organic viticulture is tough in Burgundy; the plots are small and often esoterically arranged (a polite way of saying everything can be jumbled all over the place). But Aurélien Palthey – grandson of André – and his family do it regardless, and make the most stunning value-for-money sparkling wines that we’ve ever come across.