Girolamo Russo Nerina, 2017/18, Etna Bianco DOC, Sicily, Italy
£52.00 (inc VAT)
Winemaker Giuseppe Russo is typically humble about his background as pianist: "I am not an intellectual anymore. I am a farmer." But he makes wine like a pianist plays a score: interpreting the terroir and allowing the land to express itself. This is a prime example - an idiosyncratic blend, perfectly aged to make something balanced, exciting and distinct. We taste tropical fruits, yellow peach and apple, floral and mineral hints and teeny touch of beeswax.
At 32, Giuseppe Russo was a classical pianist and doctor of letters who knew nothing about making wine. Then his father, Girolamo, died of a sudden heart attack while working in the family vineyards. Giuseppe decided not to sell the land, and threw the same diligence and lack of ego that made him a great pianist into the business of making wine. Now past his 10th vintage, the softly-spoken, unassuming Sicilian is one of the most acclaimed winemakers on Mount Etna, though you wouldn’t know it to talk to him. "I am a farmer," says Giuseppe simply.