Domaine Raymond Morin La Jalousie, 2014/15, Anjou, Loire Valley, France
£22.25 (inc VAT)
Bottled jealousy. Named after the winemakers wife's horse.
The sophisticated result messes with your mind. Initially it's all robust and syrupy with honey, shortcake, peach and melon, and then it does a complete one eighty in a bone dry whirlwind of savoury herbs, spices and funkiness. But at no point is this old switcheroo in any way disjointed, it is one fluid sensory journey that leaves you desperate for more. We can only apologise for how pretentious it sounds to describe the taste of a wine as a 'fluid sensory journey', but try it and hopefully you'll see what we mean. Jalousie is the name of the winemaker's wife's horse.
The Morin family have been winemakers for four generations. Based in the heart of the Layon hillsides, they produce a dozen wines from three main sites. They modestly put their success down to the sheer generosity of the soils around Anjou, but they certainly know how to make the most of them. By front-loading the process basically doing much of the winemaking process in the fields and then taking their time where possible when fermenting, they create wines more expressive and sophisticated than a mime in a tuxedo.