Girolamo Russo Rosato, 2017, Etna DOC, Sicily, Italy
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From the oldest part of Giuseppe Russo’s single-vineyard San Lorenzo plot, this rosato is juicy and refreshing thanks to the clean cut of minerality that runs through it. As with many of his wines, you get the distinct impression that the ever-thoughtful Giuseppe learned all there is to know about Sicilian rosato before he began.
At 32, Giuseppe Russo was a classical pianist and doctor of letters who knew nothing about making wine. Then his father, Girolamo, died of a sudden heart attack while working in the family vineyards. Giuseppe decided not to sell the land, and threw the same diligence and lack of ego that made him a great pianist into the business of making wine. Now past his 10th vintage, the softly-spoken, unassuming Sicilian is one of the most acclaimed winemakers on Mount Etna, though you wouldn’t know it to talk to him. "I am a farmer," says Giuseppe simply.